Friday, 31 August 2012

Defining True Worship

Blessed Uprising to all Dawtas of Holy King Selah and Mama Omega!

I went to bed early and got up super early, so I decided to get a headstart on my post for today as I want to be finishing up an order, sewing, crocheting and whatever else later on,JAH willing.Sunrise is truly meolodic with the sounds of the birds and neighbourhood dogs. Even the blue and gold colours of the sky were just as beautiful as the full moon sky first night (meaning last night).

Today's topic is about the importance of goodwill, righteousness and the Krist-Life, which ultimately define worshipping JAH in "The Way" most preferred. I chose this topic because I wanted to make the point that it is important for Rastafari Sistren to remember the footsteps and character of Queen Omega, and to come together in this effort. The post I made on Queen Omega Livity Principles ideally is a collection of principles the Queen lived by which were expressions of Her Faith and Possession of the Hola Irit of the Goddess. Many posts that are made on RasTa WifeLine, will relate back to Her principles and how best Sistren can endeavour to achieve the same blessings.
   
I belong to the Roots Dawta Connection Trinidad and Tobago Chapter, and I and I get together to reason, strengthen one another and also perform charity services as well as tutoring services. All members and supporters love and strive to honour Empress Menen in all things, all the time. I also feel inspired by my fellow Roots Dawtas and coincidentally this post is for them.  

Defining True Worship: A Reasoning on Isaiah 58


 The show of Brotherly love and Sisterly love is the substance of harmony, peace, joy, enlightenment, healing and goodness; it defines the civility of any nation, the Godliness of any religion and the humanity of any race. One of the most important things to notice and recall about the last reigning Monarchs of Ethiopia - Emperor Haile Selassie I and Empress Menen - is Their devotion to JAH and all members of society: the children, elderly, poor, the military and other service industries and the Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo Church with its congregation. Such service and holy submission started long before Negus Tafari Makonnen was crowned Negusa Negast Qedamawi Haile Selassie - being an embedded part of Their Personalities. And what is the definition of God or Godliness if not the Provider of the poor and oppressed, Champion of Truth and Justice, Speaker of Wisdom and King of Righteousness?
 To walk as JAH RasTafari walked is therefore to honour Them, obey the Commandments, to find the true connection to JAH and the meaning of life. To walk as the Black Krist walked also defines True Worship and the ultimate realization of human destiny or perfection. The following essay is a reasoning on Isaiah 58 which is about defining true worship by Jahovah's standards, not man's. It is taken from an Ises guide and Iditation book called the Rastafari Book of Ises which I also wrote and which will soon be available, JAH willing.Comments are welcome!



            Prophet Isaiah, during his sojourn in Judah, observed how the children of Judah conducted themselves during the holy times of fasting, prayer, feasts and Sabbath. What was made abundantly clear was that vanity tarnished the spirituality of Isra’el, because their own pleasures decided how they conducted themselves rather than JAH's will and word through His righteous Commandments. There was little consideration for morality and goodwill, Isra’el did wrong, and didn't care. Carnal satisfaction was higher than thanksgiving and all else.
                According to Isaiah Chapter 58, Isra’el was guilty of finding their own pleasure, speaking their own words (gossip, complaints, goals), doing their own will (instead of the requirements of the holy period and goodwill), exploiting others, bowing to idols, arguing and fighting. During the Sabbath or times of fasting, there was no rest from their ways and means, and no time was truly ever fully reserved for the Living God of their Covenant. They forgot that the Sabbath was instituted so that man would not forget to rest from his daily creations, and just reflect on and abide with himself, his I-Self.
                Embodying both the holy ways of Sabbath and True Worship or Ises is like a petition for blessings. Through Isaiah, Jahovah imparted what was right/ideal to consider True Worship. Man would:

  •  loose the bands of the wicked/wickedness
  • release heavy burdens and bonds of yolk or free the oppressed
  • feed the hungry
  • house the poor
  • cover the naked
  • gather with family
  • put away finger pointing
  • refrain from speaking vanities
  • satisfy the afflicted soul
  • call Senbet a delight, honourable, holy of the Lord
  • honour JAH by not doing his own ways, or finding pleasure or speaking his own words. (The ego is silenced)
               
Summarising Isaiah's key points of true worship, it is clear that the greatest form of Ises, the truest form to be exact – has nothing to do with personal desires! JAH's definition of worship is that man think of others and God, before himself.
                True Worship or the powers of Ises, are wrapped up in a mixture of love, humility, selflessness, goodwill and righteousness. True Worship is about not talking the talk,  and making empty vows to JAH with the sweetest prayers -  it is about walking the walk that Kristos laid out and doing all the above selfless deeds - which for the benefit of your receiver - are Angels of JAH; or deliverance, salvation and comfort. We each bless Isra’el through goodwill on one hand, and as a result, on the other hand we worship and positively communicate to JAH at the same time, because of this willingness to serve others as JAH serves us by providing life and sustenance.
                True worship, through the power of such love for JAH with humility, selflessness and righteousness; takes The Creator's power to the bosoms of those who need it and creates the glory of Zion because the Name of JAH is praised in our actions. When we act in Isaiah's way, as Hebrews, we act in the name Jahovah, the Living God.  Worship is therefore something not to be solely confined to silent prayer or church gathering as it can and must be performed outside of allotted Ises times through community service and other good deeds.
Consequently, True Worship can also be summarised as the exhortation to be Righteous by being willing to: give, be good, obedient and praise the Lord with our “whole hearts”. Worship entails the healing of souls by the Irit and Word of JAH, and so when I and I pray, we are preparing and starting the healing process for others, and as a reward, or because we put blessed vibrations into the world, the healing returns for us also.
Not only is it important to do, but to keep Ises undefiled. This means that the thoughts and deeds behind our worship or prayers and goodwill, are of JAH RasTafari also; the attitude is correct. True worship in this perfection of Word and Act thus only knows and renders true blessings.
                Isaiah lists the blessings upon Isra’el when Jahovah is praised in the Highest manner:


  • our healing shall spring forth speedily (regeneration)
  • our righteousness shall go before us (protection)
  • the glory of JAH shall be our reward (salvation)
  • JAH shall answer our call (comfort)
  • JAH shall always guide I and I (guidance)
  •  He shall satisfy our souls in drought (satisfaction)
  •  He shall strengthen our bones (endurance)
  • He shall cause us to ride upon the high places of the earth (prosperity)
  • He will feed us with the heritage of Father Jakob (anointing)
  • We shall delight ourselves in the Lord (zeal and faithfulness)
  • Our seed shall rebuild the places of desolation (repatriation)
  • We shall raise up the foundations of many generations (continuation)
               

In other words, seeing that True Worship is rooted in the community and our relationships with one another as expressions and testaments to the presence of JAH among us, Rastafari are made whole; one body, one nation under JAH’s circle throne. It is clear to see that the purpose of the Nazirene is therefore quite similar to the requests of Isaiah, in that Yesus kristos asked over and over for ones to love JAH and one another whole heartedly whereby they’d become sinless in the Law and made whole by the Hola Irit of the Creator.
                The kingdom of JAH and Zion opens its gates and appears to us when we worship and live righteously and selflessly do the works of healing, or works which kill the presence of wickedness within us. True worship is the only path to Resurrection and Salvation on a personal level, and knowing the I-Self or Inner Goddess/God.
               

Serving JAH


               
                The ultimate service unto JAH, apart from the free will offering of Ises, is to be at one with, or in harmony with JAH’s terrestrial and cosmic worlds and energies; and ultimately to be at one with the way in which the human body was created to perform. Today man and womankind are very “into” their world of vices which are not of a spiritual nature. These things are obsessions that bring little good to the mind or society and environment. They are there for pleasure, vanity and riches instead.
                 Because little time is spent on reflection and seeking the True Wise Mind of JAH, little time is spent in service of God, or the I-Self.
                 The Ible altogether tells the True Hebrew to serve the Lord God Jahova JAH Rastafari, and by serving JAH we are guided, protected, forgiven, provided for, loved, rescued and blessed. Serving JAH requires every one of I and I to: love, be loyal, honour, emulate, raspect, trust and praise JAH the Living God.
The other Books of the Ible apart from Isaiah that speak on rendering such service to Jahovah, or the qualifications of true worship, are as follows:


You shall walk after the Lord your God and fear Him, and keep His commandments and obey His voice; you shall serve Him and hold fast to Him. (Deuteronomy 13:4)

“And now, Israel, what does the Lord your God require of you, but to fear the Lord your God, to walk in all His ways and to love Him, to serve the Lord your God with all your heart and with all your soul,  and to keep the commandments of the Lord and His statutes which I command you today for your good?
(Deuteronomy 10:12-13)

And it shall be that if you earnestly obey My commandments which I command you today, to love the Lord your God and serve Him with all your heart and with all your soul, then I will give you the rain for your land in its season, the early rain and the latter rain, that you may gather in your grain, your new wine, and your oil. And I will send grass in your fields for your livestock, that you may eat and be filled.’
(Deuteronomy 11:13-15)

Then Samuel said to the people, “Do not fear. You have done all this wickedness; yet do not turn aside from following the Lord, but serve the Lord with all your heart. And do not turn aside; for then you would go after empty things which cannot profit or deliver, for they are nothing.  For the Lord will not forsake His people, for His great name’s sake, because it has pleased the Lord to make you His people. (1 Samuel 12:2-22)

“No one can serve two masters; for either he will hate the one and love the other, or else he will be loyal to the one and despise the other. You cannot serve God and mammon. (Matthew 6:24)

Make a joyful shout to the Lord, all you lands! Serve the Lord with gladness; Come before His presence with singing
(Psalm 100: 1-2)

I beseech you therefore, brethren, by the mercies of God, that you present your bodies a living sacrifice, holy, acceptable to God, which is your reasonable service.  And do not be conformed to this world, but be transformed by the renewing of your mind, that you may prove what is that good and acceptable and perfect will of God. Be kindly affectionate to one another with brotherly love, in honour giving preference to one another; not lagging in diligence, fervent in spirit, serving the Lord; distributing to the needs of the saints, given to hospitality. 
(Romans 12: 1-2, 10-11, 13)


Selah!
Blessed Sabbath reading!
Ila Addis


Thursday, 30 August 2012

How to Sew a Simple Princess Dress with Frill and Sash



How to Sew a Simple Princess Dress with Frill and Sash
(With no button or zip)




This tutorial is for a regular girl’s dress, made simple. I am making this princess dress in denim, with three layers in all, and a sash. It is a size 4-5T. This is a free-hand sewing project, without pattern, zips or buttons, so the garment has to be big enough to fit the princess as a slip over (hands up over the head to put on and take off works best). This pattern is a basic template that can be embellished with a collar, embroidery and pockets– the type of fabric will also dress-up or down the style.
Here are the basic math and measurements needed to make a no-zip/button dress so it can still have room. Always use a dress that is similar to find out collar and armpit measurements and compare to your child’s.
My daughter’s measurements will work for a lean 4T-5T.
 Chest 20 ½
Waist = 20
Hips = 23
Collar width = 5 ½
Collar depth = 3
shoulder to under armpit = 5 ¼

The basic formula when making a no zip garment needs these measurements. This is how to calculate the sizes of your panels and cut outs:
Add 3 to your measurement (only bust, waist and hip usually), then divide by 2.
Add 1 more for seam allowance (that would be a ½ inch seam allowance on both sides).
This is the measurement you mark out and cut.

The length of the dress, skirt or shirt must add seam allowance about 1-2 inches. This is for shoulder and hemline and any other waist or skirt seams.
If you want to add a gathered skirt attachment to a project, or make a frill at the hem of a skirt, take the formula width of the skirt and x 1.5 (you can also x 2 or double).  This will provide the width. This tutorial does both.
For this 4T-5T dress I used the hip formula for the top part, because I wanted it to have enough space to slide on and off, and to last a little while. I used that measurement to calculate what the gathered skirt portion would be also. If making a shirt of kaftan or simple straight dress, then the bust and hip are the most important to have so that garment can slide on and off. I mostly use the hip size for the entire width of shirts, skirts and dresses once the garment comes to rest in that region.
To calculate the measurements to mark and cut at:

Formula for width of top piece (shirt part): 23 + 3 = 26    26/2 = 13   13 + 1 = 14

Length of dress (shoulder to desired length) = 24 with seam allowance 24 + 2 = 26 

For the collar use the circumference of the child’s head and divide by 4.  21/4 = 5 ¼ 

Add on another ¼ inch to your answer for good measure making it 5 1/2 inches.
(When I make the one fold hem it ends up a 7 inch wide space.)

Collar depth is 3 inches, when hemmed, about 3 ½ inches.

Shoulder to Arm pit for this age is 5 inches. Add ¼  to that for shoulder seam allowance (if you cut garments on the fold at the shoulder you don’t need the seam allowance)

To make a dress with 3 layers you need to use a tape measure to determine how long each part will be, and add on the necessary seam allowances to each section of the dress (shoulder, waist, frill plus final hemline). My top piece was 9 inches long, my middle 14.5 and my frill 5 inches. So in all the dress is 28.5 but the final length is 27 and some. I used ½ inch seam lines and made no hemline.

Measurements that should read flat on the fabric, right sides together. All measurements are inches.:
Width of top piece = 14
Length of top piece = 9
Width of skirt piece = 21
Length of skirt piece = 14.5
Width of sash = 60
Length of sash = 4
Width of frill = 31
Length of frill = 5
Collar width = 5 ½
Collar depth = 3
Shoulder to under armpit = 5 ¼

Materials to make this project
1 yard -1 ½ yards fabric I used denim and cotton
Chalk
Scissors
Pins
Iron
Sewing machine
Tape measure
Yard rule

Method:

1. Cut out the top, skirt, sash and frill rectangles of the dress.


2. Take all the pieces to the sewing machine and Zigzag stitch the raw edges. Join together the two panels for the top piece, right sides together and pin three sides of it together


3. Place your neckline and side seam markings in chalk on the top now:
For the neckline, fold the rectangle in half, make a crease.

Unfold. This is the centre line.
 
Using the ruler make 2 ¾ on each side of the centre line which is the 5 ½ collar measurement. Next put a wide dash where the 3 inch depth belongs.

Using the rule, Draw a 1/2 inch seam across the top as well, passing through the collar marks.
Next mark the sides which will make the arm holes. Use the rule and measure 5 ¼ down from the top of the fabric and make a dash. Then draw the line going the rest of the way down. Do the same for the opposite side.


5. Join together the pieces for the skirt, right sides together and pin the left and right sides. Draw a ½ inch seam line on both sides using rule and chalk.


6. Back to the machine to sew the pieces together.
First make the two side seams of the skirt using a straight stitch.
Next, sew up the two short sides of the top piece or shirt piece.
Sew with straight stitch, the 1/2 inch top seam, making sure to reverse stitch over the marking for the collars this is so it can cut easily without unraveling. (This seam will be secured when the collar is zig zagged).

The top piece should look like this:


7. Fold the top in half matching up the two markings for the collar width.
Pin together.

Draw a curve to the 3 inch depth line.



Cut that semi-circle out – you should be cutting over the reverse stitch part of the seam.


Zigzag stitch the raw edge of the collar. Make sure to lay the top seam flat so that it is zigzagged in place lying flat.

8. Iron out the seams made on the sides of the top and the skirt, and on the top of the top piece as well.
Fold, press and pin the armholes and neckline one time with a ½ inch fold – twice if you care to but I find it tedious.


Note there is no hem at the bottom of the skirt, only a zigzag edge (or you can use your selvedge edge which needs no zigzag) because I am going to attach it to the frill.

9. Sew with straight stitch, the armholes and neckline. Iron out seams.



10. Turn top piece right side out and slip inside of skirt so the right sides of both pieces touch.
Match them up at the sides, seam to seam and pin in place.




Make small uniform little folds (folded to the right) going from corner pin to corner pin on one side, and continue to the other side. I usually go from left to right in pinning. Make sure pins are vertical so the machine can pass over them easily.
       

11. Sew together with a straight stitch using a ½ inch seam.

    
12. Unpin and iron the seam flat.

How To add a Frill to a Princess Skirt

I usually always make my frill 5 inches tall which includes which includes a selvedge edge and a ½ inch seam allowance at the top to attach the frill to the skirt. I don’t hem once the selvedge edge has no holes or writing. But if my edges end up uneven when I make my side seam then I make a small ¼ inch hem.  If you have to hem with no selvedge add 1-2 inches to the frill making it a 6-7 inch tall or long rectangle.
To calculate the width of the frill, the same formula applies where the width of the skirt is multiplied by 1.5 or 2 inches. I use 1.5. If you have 1.3  you can still make a gathered frill.
The width of my skirt is 21 so the frill I am using is 21 x 1.5 = 31.5.
The frill is 5 inches long by 31.5 inches wide. I often round up or down when I get point-something numbers.
The frill to be cut is 5 x 31 inches (or 6 x 31 if making a hem). The frill can be cut using a fold to make one seam, or it can have two side seams, just make sure that when it lies flat folded, it measures  5 x 31 of whatever your measurement is.
13. Zigzag the raw edges of the frill. Don’t zigzag the selvedge.
14. If you have two pieces, put right sides together and sew up the sides using a  ½ inch seam allowance.  I start from the selvedge and go up so that if I get any unevenness it’s at the top where it won’t show. Press out the seam.
If you have one piece on the fold, join the one seam and sew up using a ½ inch seam. Starting with selvedge edge again. Iron out the seam. This is what it will look like with one seam:


15. If you don’t have selvedge then make a hemline making two 1/2  folds; pressing and pinning. Sew using a straight stitch. Iron out the hem of frill.
To attach the frill to the skirt:
16. With the skirt on the right side, turn the frill on the wrong side. Matching up seam to seam, pin the frill at one corner of the skirt. Extend the frill out flat to find the opposite end and pin that to the other side of the skirt. It doesn’t matter if your skirt or frill has 1 or 2 seams, still attach the frill seam to skirt seam at least on one side.

 (Note this is the same method used to attach the skirt piece to the top piece of the dress.)


 

Pin the remaining fabric all around on both sides, making small pleats folded to the right. Insert the pins with the head to the bottom and sharp edge pointing up where the machine will sew. 













If you want to use the machine to gather, do that now instead (though I think it would require a wider frill measurement).  I don’t do it because I don’t have the correct foot –  so I do it by hand.

18. After pinning, using a straight stitch and another  ½ inch seam, sew the frill and skirt together.
Iron out seams flat on the wrong side.



Finished the dress! But you still have to make a sash – which you can do first before you start the dress, that’s what I do.


How to make a sash
There are three different ways to make a sash or belt that I use. I will just outline them – don’t really have pictures but it’s simple enough to figure out.
a) Fold the sash in half right sides together and match edges together, pin and iron in place. Iron it as flat and even as possible. Sew a straight line down the joined ends. Flip over to the other side, iron again. Tuck in and zigzag closed the two open ends separately.
b) Wrong side facing up, fold one edge of the sash about ¼ inch in and iron the fold,
Flip the sash around so the fold just made is on the top, and make another ¼ fold and iron. Match the two folded edges together, pin and iron the entire lengt. this is a picture of two ties which can also go on the top/shirt piece 1 inch up from the bottom.


c) You can also do the lazy way which I did. Start the same way, which is to press the ends together with the right side facing up. Iron that flat as possible and pin. Use a zigzag stitch all around the perimeter. Use a 4 zigzag stitch and go all around the sash. You can go twice instead of once. Or use a serger!



Now you are really finished!
Let the little princess get all dolled up! Wear with or without the sash:







Here's the princess dress with the hemline and no frill, and with ties to the side:



 Happy sewing!

Ila